Use and Reproduction
DiamondSure diamond drill bits
are specifically designed for use on very hard materials as shown
in the materials section. The extremely hard nature of
the materials requires that the diamond drill bits be used with
proper drilling techniques. Improper use can overheat and
damage the drill bit and may also cause heat fractures and material
The three primary drilling techniques
of Drill Speed, Drill Pressure and Lubrication, must work together
to allow the drill bit to function without overheating from friction
due to the extremely hard material. When used properly,
the diamond drill bit should NEVER be HOT. The drill bit
should never be more than warm, to the touch. If a bit
becomes hot, it is an indication of inadequate lubrication, too
fast a drill speed or too much pressure for the specific material
The following sections discuss
the various drilling techniques.
Diamond drill speeds vary depending
upon the manufacturer and type of diamond drill. DiamondSure
Electroplate Bonded Diamond Core Drill Bits, should be used at
slow to very slow speeds, with the speed decreasing as the hardness
and abrasiveness of the material increases. Also, since
the circumference of a bit increases as the bit diameter becomes
larger, the drill rpm speed must be reduced on larger bits to
offset the increased speed at which the outside cutting edge
The following table shows recommended
drill speeds. Drill speeds considerably in excess of these
speeds will quickly burn up the diamond bits. Proper drill
speeds, low drill pressure and adequate use of water for lubrication
will extend drill bit life.
DiamondSure Diamond Core Drill Bits
Recommended Drill Speed (rpm)
Glass, Ceramic & China
Limestone & Marble Stone
Ceramic Wall Tile
Porcelain Wall Tile
Porcelain Floor Tile
Granite & Quartz Stone
for use on Concrete or Masonry, or with Hammer Drills)
speeds, low drill pressure and plentiful use of water lubrication
will extend drill bit life considerably.
Since all materials vary in hardness
and abrasiveness, it is impossible to determine exact drill speeds
for all possible materials. Additionally, as discussed
below, lubrication and drill pressure must also be considered
when determining the proper drill speed. A faster drill
speed or increased pressure may reduce the cutting time slightly,
but it will also increase the friction significantly and heat
up the bit, reducing the bit life considerably and increasing
the risk of heat fractures and material breakage.
If used properly, a diamond drill
bit should never be more than warm when touched after use.
If a drill bit develops yellow, brown, blue or black 'burn marks'
around the tip, it is an indication of extreme heat and that
the drill speed being used is too fast, the amount of pressure
on the drill is too great, or the amount of water lubrication
is completely inadequate.
Water or coolant must always
be used to cool and lubricate the tip. The lubrication
reduces heat build-up, prolonging drill bit life and helps avoid
heat fractures in the material. Water is most often used
as the lubricant, since it works very well and has no cost.
Oil based lubricants do not work well on diamond drill bits.
Good lubrication is critical.
Minimal lubrication will keep the bit from burning up, but very
good lubrication techniques will extend bit life by a factor
of 5 or even 10.
When drilling in fiberglass,
a diamond drill bit can be used dry or with a very small amount
of water. When drilling in glass or ceramic, soft ceramic
tile and porcelain, if properly lubricated, the dust from the
cut should dissipate into the water. The drill bit contact
with the surface should always be wet and the drill bit tip should
never be hot. If the tip is ever more than just warm, it
is generally an indication of too little lubrication (or possibly
too much speed or pressure).
When drilling in hard, abrasive
materials such as limestone, sandstone, hard ceramic and porcelain
tiles, marble or granite, it is critical to have lots of lubrication.
With these hard materials, it is common to drill under water
or to have a small amount of water constantly running over the
drill bit and bore hole. In either case, the "pumping"
technique described below is needed to assure water reaches the
very tip of the bit.
This discussion is presented
only as a guide. It is almost impossible to have 'too much'
lubrication and the only down side risk is the mess from water
being thrown off by the bit. However, 'too little' lubrication
will cause many problems.
Core Drill Bits with
side tip lubrication hole
a clay dam
drill glass block.
drill a ceramic plate.
Tips & Techniques
Various kinds of very specialized
industrial water feed equipment are available for industrial
production type work. But, when drilling with diamond bits,
the primary concern is merely getting enough water lubrication
on the cutting edge of the bit, no mater what method is used.
However, all lubrication methods
are not equal. Since good lubrication extends drill bit
life considerably, we rated the various methods to help people
understand the differences between the various methods.
As a rule of thumb, the relative rating also gives a general
indication of the relative drill bit life under various lubrication
methods. For example, the basic clay dam lubrication method
(4 rating) should provide a drill bit life of approximately twice
that of using a squirt bottle (2 rating).
Squirt Bottle w/pumping action
Dam w/pumping action
Under Water w/pumping action
(1 poor - 10 good)
Hose or Water Drip Method: The most basic method is to use
a small hose that runs water onto the surface near the hole and
down into the bore hole. To provide lubrication on a horizontal
surface, one trick is to place a plastic jug or bottle with a
small hole near the bottom of it, next to the drill hole.
The water leaks out of the bottle and provides continuous lubrication
as you drill. To allow lubrication to reach the drill tip,
it is very important to use a "pumping" technique
described below. Without the pumping technique, the water
will not reach the very tip of the drill bit.
Clay Dam: Another excellent lubrication
technique is to build a "dam" around the drill hole
using a small amount of modeling clay or a similar material.
This method can be very effective, especially if the water
extends above the side tip lubrication hole to allow water
to flow into the bit providing good interior lubrication.
"Pumping" the drill is also very important to
increase the lubrication at the tip. Without the pumping
technique, the water will not reach the very tip of the drill
bit. The clay can be used many times if it is stored in
a plastic zip-lock style bag to keep it from drying out.
Pan Drilling: For low volume repetitive work,
it is also possible to place the material into a pan or plastic
tub (place a thin plastic board underneath so you don't drill
into the pan) and fill the pan with water so that it covers the
surface of the material being drilled. The water should
cover the side lubrication hole on the tip of the diamond
drill bit. To allow lubrication to reach the drill tip,
it is very important to use a "pumping" technique
described below. Without the pumping technique, the water
will not reach the very tip of the drill bit even though the
bit is under water.
Spray Bottle: When drilling on vertical surfaces,
about the only way to apply water is to use some type of hose.
If that is not possible, a marginally effective solution is to
have someone constantly "squirting" water into the
bore hole using a squirt bottle. Squirting water will usually
keep the bit from burning up, but unless a pumping action
is used, the water will not reach the very tip of the drill.
Pumping Technique: No matter what lubrication method
is used, a periodic "pumping" action will significantly
improve lubrication at the drill tip. Because of the pressure
on the drill tip, water has trouble reaching the very tip of
the drill bit. A "pumping" technique allows lubrication
to reach the very tip. While drilling, merely raise the
drill up and down a fraction of an inch once in a while as you
drill (maybe every 15 to 20 seconds or so). This assures
that water enters the drill tip area completely and fully lubricates
the very tip. Pumping the drill improves lubrication
at the tip and will improve drill bit life considerably.
When using normal drill bits
on soft materials such as wood, increasing the pressure causes
the bit to drill faster and has little affect upon friction or
heat build-up on the bit. When drilling in harder materials
such as hardwoods, it is more important to reduce the pressure
and let the bit "drill at its own speed". Otherwise,
friction will quickly burn up the bit. When using diamond
drill bits, the affect is similar to hardwood drilling, but it
is magnified many times due to the extreme hardness and abrasiveness
of the material being drilled.
When using diamond drills, it
is very important to have only light to medium pressure on the
drill and to let the bit "drill at its own speed".
Increasing pressure will not speed up the cutting noticeably,
but it will increase the friction considerably and quickly cause
the bit to overheat. This not only burns up the bit, but
it also heats up the surrounding surface and can cause heat fractures
or breakage to occur.
Drill Head Pressure
Core Drill Bits
Pressure (lbs.) *
6 to 8 lbs.
Glass, Ceramic & Porcelain
8 to 12 lbs.
Limestone & Marble Stone
12 to 18 lbs.
Ceramic/Porcelain Wall Tile
15 to 20 lbs.
Stone Style Porcelain Floor
18 to 30 lbs.
18 to 30 lbs.
Drill press arms leverage hand pressure by a
factor of about
6 or 8. So 2 lbs. of hand
pressure on the drill press arm will apply about 14 lbs of pressure
to the drill head.
If a drill bit develops yellow,
brown, blue or black 'burn marks' around the tip, it is an indication
of extreme heat caused by the excessive drill speed or by too
much pressure on the drill. Impact type "hammer drills"
should never be used with diamond drills as they have no benefit
and will cause the tip of the bit to mushroom or split.
If a hole is being drilled completely
through a piece of fragile material, it is also important to
"lighten up" considerably on the pressure when the
drill bit is near the back of the material. This reduces
chipping or fracturing on the back of the material when the bit
emerges from the back.
Drill Speed, Pressure and Lubrication
The cutting speed and life of
a diamond drill bit are affected by the hardness and abrasiveness
of the material plus the drill speed, pressure and lubrication.
Experience with a specific material quickly allows a person to
determine the optimum drill speed, pressure and lubrication to
obtain the fastest cutting speed with the least affect upon bit
life and risk of heat fractures or breakage. However, when
experience is lacking, it is best to start out with a very slow
drill speed, very low pressure and lots of lubrication.
This starting point reduces risks to a minimum and extends bit
bit on a
core drill bit designed
Diamond core drill bits
with no pilot bit.
Pilot Bits on
Pilot bits are often seen on
standard metal core drill bits or hole saws designed for use
on wood and other soft materials. A pilot bit is a small
drill bit located in the center of the hollow core drill bit,
that keeps the bit centered while starting a hole. Pilot
bits are especially convenient when using a core drill bit in
a hand drill. When a pilot bit is not present, a core drill
bit may tend to "walk" until it seats into a groove.
However, pilot bits are rarely
used on diamond core drill bits since there are many drawbacks
of a pilot bit with the diamond core drill bit design and drilling
in very hard materials.
- A diamond pilot bit adds significant
cost to the already expensive diamond core drill bits.
- The diamond pilot bit often
wears out before the main core bit.
- Drilling times can be considerable
when drilling in very hard materials and a pilot bit increases
the drilling time even more.
- A pilot bit eliminates the shaft
water-feed lubrication hole and does not allow the use of center
A template can easily be used
to start a core drill that does not have a pilot bit. This
simple technique is discussed in the following section.
made from plastic.
Starting a Core
Drill Bit by Using a Template
Core drill bits above 1/2"
work best when used in a drill press rather than in a hand drill.
Starting a core drill bit when using a drill press is simple,
since the drill press keeps the drill bit from moving about.
To reduce drill bit slippage or "walking" when using
a hand drill, a template can be made to help start the drill
bit if necessary.
A template is made by drilling
a pilot hole in a piece of soft wood or plastic, using the diamond
core drill bit or by cutting a "V" in the edge of a
piece of wood or plastic or drilling a hole in it the size of
the core drill. The hole template works best, however,
the "V" template is easier to make and can be used
with many sizes of core drill bits.
Templates are often made of 1/8"
plexiglass, 1/8" pressed wood or even cardboard. For
repetitive drilling, a plastic or plexiglass template works best
since water lubrication can be used immediately. The template
is placed on the surface of the material being drilled, with
the pilot hole or "V" above the target hole area.
The template will hold the core drill bit in place as it starts.
After just a few revolutions of the drill bit, a groove is created
and the template can be removed.
Glass - Not Recommended
Tempered glass can be drilled,
however, breakage may run as high as 80% to 90% depending upon
the degree of temper in the glass. We do not recommend
trying to drill tempered glass.
The manufacturing process of
making tempered glass results in the glass having a large amount
of stress between various portions of the glass. The stress
points might look much like a piece of wood containing lots of
"knots", however, there is no outward appearance to
indicate the hidden stress. Highly tempered glass will
often crack at the stress points near the hole.
Since the amount of hidden stress increases with the degree of
temper, the success rate of drilling tempered glass reduces with
the increase in glass temper.
There is no way to know the amount
of temper in a piece of tempered glass, so there is no way to
evaluate the amount of risk involved in trying to drill it.
Therefore, we DO NOT RECOMMEND attempting to drill tempered glass.
Depth of Bore
Bonded diamond core drill bits
are designed to drill to depths of about 1/2". We
do not recommend drilling in materials beyond that depth.
However, it is often possible to push the bits beyond their design
limits by drilling to a depth of about 1/2", then removing
the core before drilling deeper. The core can usually be
removed easily on smaller holes by slipping a screwdriver down
the drill slot and twisting. On larger holes, you may need
to chip out the center core 'plug' with a chisel before continuing
to drill. Removing the core reduces friction and heat build-up
caused by the 'plug' and will usually allow drilling deeper holes
if extremely good lubrication is used.
Drilling deep holes with bonded
diamond drill bits is generally limited to about 1-1/4"
in depth depending upon the specific material being drilled.
Even when removing the core periodically and using very good
drilling techniques, the friction still increases considerably
and limits deep boring. For deeper holes, a sintered diamond
drill bit is normally required. The more expensive sintered
bits have diamonds embedded directly into the metal tip and are
most appropriate for deep drilling.
through the material)
Most applications require a person
to drill completely through the material, however some applications
require drilling a 'blind' hole that does not go completely through
the material. Blind holes are simple with traditional drill
bits that drill out the complete hole. However, solid drill bits
are not practical when drilling in extremely hard materials and
solid diamond drill bits are rarely made.
A blind hole can be drilling
using a hole saw style drill bit by drilling partially through
the material and then removing the core or plug. The core
can usually be removed easily on smaller holes by slipping a
screwdriver down the drill slot and twisting. The core
will break off near the bottom of the hole and can be removed.
On larger holes, you may need to chip out the center core 'plug'
with a chisel and very large holes may require drilling several
smaller holes into the core to allow it to be removed.
Spear Point Drill
Ceramic and Porcelain tile, used
on walls, counters and floors, has changed considerably over
the years. Ceramic tile was first developed with a heat-hardened
vitrified glass finish on the top surface. The inside of
the Ceramic tile was still relatively soft. Since the tile
was easily scratched, manufacturers developed better manufacturing
techniques to make the surface finish much harder. The
newer Ceramic tile now has an extremely hard surface that wears
very well and the inside of the tile is also relatively hard. While
this is a distinct advantage from the stand point of wear, the
newer Ceramic tile is often difficult to drill without a diamond
Porcelain tile was originally
developed as an alternative to Ceramic tile, for use in floor
applications where usage and wear was more extreme. Porcelain
tile is made with various mixtures of materials, normally including
feldspar and quartz, which are two of the major components of
natural Granite. The use of Porcelain floor tile was generally
limited to commercial applications, but by the late 1980's, Porcelain
tile use expanded more into residential construction.
In the 1990's, tile manufacturers
began to expand their Porcelain tile product lines to include
many different styles and many that closely resembled natural
stones. Because of the natural stone look, Porcelain tile
use on walls and counters became more popular. Finally,
in the late 1990's tile manufacturer's developed new manufacturing
techniques that made the Porcelain tile significantly harder.
As with Ceramic tile, this was a major advancement resulting
in reduced wear and very long life. However, many Porcelain
tiles are now as hard as Granite and some are as hard as a low
grade tool steel. The newer type of high-quality, "super-hard",
"Class IV" and "Class V" Porcelain tiles
are now almost impossible to drill with the older "spear
point" carbide drill bits and generally can only be drilled
with a diamond drill bit.
Spear Point carbide bits no longer work
the new type of super-hard floor, counter and wall tiles.
Drill Bits are the Solution.
When drilling in the newer super-hard
tile, using a diamond drill bit is the only reasonable option.
However, even with a diamond drill bit, the extremely hard material
is not very forgiving if inappropriate drilling techniques are
used. It is important that good drilling techniques be
used. Appropriate drill speeds, low drill pressure and
good lubrication are critical. Please review the Lubrication
Tip & Techniques and the DiamondSure
Drill Speed sections.
Drilled to insert lights.
Drilled to insert lights.
a clay dam
drill glass block.
Purple LED lights with
wire in block
with bubbles and swirls.
& Bottle Drilling
Drilling in glass block or bottles
is basically no different than drilling in normal glass.
If you use the appropriate speed, use low drill pressure and
plenty of water for lubrication, you won't have any problems.
Glass breakage with carbide bits is fairly common, but with a
good diamond bit, it is extremely rare. There are a few
very important facts and tips that will helpful when drilling
glass block or bottles.
There are numerous different
types and styles of glass block made by many different manufacturers.
Most have some type of design or pattern, however, for drilling
purposes, there are two important characteristics to be aware
of. Glass block can vary significantly as to the thickness
of the glass wall and some glass block is tempered. This
information is rarely disclosed on the block itself, but should
be considered when buying glass block for crafting purposes.
If you are drilling glass block
that has been installed in a wall, you don't have much choice
but to drill whatever is there. However, for craft projects,
it is good to be selective. If the glass block is 3/8"
thick, it will take three times as long to drill compared to
block with a 1/8" thick wall. Additionally, it will
triple the drill bit wear per hole, causing the bit life to be
only one-third as long. Some glass block and bottles are
tempered to increase the strength of the glass. Tempered
glass should be avoided if reasonably possible.
Experienced crafters who work
with glass block and bottles learn to search for different types
and styles to test. After drilling a sample of each, it
is obvious which has a thin wall and if any are tempered.
Also, crafters who are drilling lots of glass blocks or bottles,
normally develop some type of "clay dam" or pan drilling
method, so that it can be drilled under water to improve lubrication
and extend drill bit life. The "clay dam" method
of lubrication is very effective for drilling in glass block
and is simple to use. Under water pan drilling works best
for bottles. "Pumping" the drill is also very
important since even under water, the tip of the bit will go
dry after drilling about 1/8" deep. Water lubrication
techniques are discussed in more detail in the Lubrication Tips & Tricks section.
Glass block normally has a vacuum
inside. Some of the water and glass dust will always be
sucked inside when the hole breaks through. However, it
is easy to rinse out the inside of the block with water as long
as the dirty water inside is not allowed to dry out. The
plug from the hole will sometimes be pulled into the block -
it will usually drop out easily when the inside is rinsed.
However, if too much pressure was placed on the drill as the
hole breaks through, it can cause the plug to have a flair from
the splintering on the rear of the hole. Normally, you
can remove the plug with a pair of needle nose pliers, but the
best solution is to reduce the drill pressure when nearing the
back of the glass to avoid splintering as the drill breaks through.
A Few Final Glass
Light Block Tips
A piece of wire from a regular
coat hanger or a small wooden dowel work great for inserting
into the hole to "push" the lights around inside the
block, so that all the corners are filled with lights.
A hand drill works fine using
a starting template and a clay dam - for a few glass blocks.
However, an inexpensive drill press is well worth the cost if
you are making lots of blocks. There are many very nice,
inexpensive drill presses available these days and they make
glass block drilling fast and easy compared to a hand drill.
The most popular diamond drill
bit for glass block drilling seems to be the 1/2" size since
it is about the right size for light strings. We prefer
a 5/8" sized bit because the slightly larger hole gives
a little extra room when inserting the lights or when pushing
them around and allows easy removal of the lights if you change
your mind or need to change a bulb.
Glass blocks sometimes have a
white or cream paint coating around the outside edge to give
better adhesion for building mortar or caulk. Most people
remove the paint, but some just hide it under a ribbon.
If the paint is hard to remove, soaking the block in hot water
usually softens the paint and allows easy removal with a common
kitchen dish scratcher.
Glass blocks come in many sizes,
shapes and surface textures. The ones with a heavy surface
textures tend to work best since they diffuse the light and hide
the light string wires better. Our research has shown that there
are at least 15 different surface textures available (there are
probably far more), so a little searching can result in finding
some unusual patterns that make very nice light blocks.
Most people seem to use the standard 8"x8"x3"
blocks, maybe because they are easily available. We have
found that the smaller 6"x6"x3" blocks and even
some of the odd shaped triangular, brick shaped and corner blocks
are are also especially nice because of their unique sizes and
shapes. There are no limits to the artistic possibilities,
so don't be afraid to try something different.
A hot glue gun with clear glue
works very well to attach ribbons and bows, or ribbons can be
tied as if you were wrapping a package. Most people
tend to start out with the multi-colored lights then quickly
learn that the white and single colored lights are also beautiful.
The non-multi colored lights are especially nice for light blocks
that can be used all year round. Light strings also come
with various colored wire, so experiment with the white lights
with white wire or the red lights with red wire, etc to see what
Finally, if you ever get a chance
to try the "LED" or "Tiny Lights", give them
a try - especially the big strings of 60 or 100 (it takes a few
more lights because they are so small). Yes, they cost
more, but they create almost no heat and bulbs last nearly forever.
Most importantly, some LED light strings have a light function
controller that gives a special random blinking pattern that
blinks, twinkles and strobes, etc. If you can find the
type with the light controller, the LED strings with the special
lighting affect is really worth the additional cost. Our
experience is that most people who try the LED lights with the
controllers rarely go back to the standard bulb lights.
Aquariums are often drilled to
allow for installation of side-entry filter systems rather that
standard top-mount systems. The side-entry systems provide
better flow-through water movement where that is an important
factor. Drilling in aquariums is not difficult - it is
basically the same as drilling normal glass. However, additional
precaution should be taken when drilling aquariums compared to
There is always a small risk
of causing a break when drilling any glass. While the risk
is extremely small if proper drilling techniques are used, this
small risk is always there. If a break would occur when
drilling in regular glass, it is frustrating, but not a major
loss. However, the loss of an aquarium is much more significant,
so reasonable care should be taken.
As additional 'comfort', we offer
that the structural integrity of glass increases significantly
as it becomes thicker. So, the small risk of a drilling
problem actually reduces significantly as the size (and cost)
of the aquarium increases. Based upon our testing and our
customer contact, we offer the following suggestions for aquarium
Take proper care: You don't need to be an expert
at drilling glass or aquariums. No matter if it is a 20
gallon tank or 2,000 gallons. Take your time, use proper
drilling speeds, low drill pressure, good water lubrication and
follow a few basic cautions relative to aquarium drilling.
Be sure you have the right
sized drill bit:
Pipe is measured as an inside diameter. So 1-1/2"
pipe or a 1-1/2" fitting will have an 'inside diameter'
of 1-1/2". However, the outside diameter can vary
depending upon the type of pipe or fitting used and depending
upon the specific manufacturer. Be sure to measure the
outside diameter properly so that you drill the correct size
hole. This may sound rather basic, but we assure you that
it is a common mistake.
Avoid drilling in the bottom
of the tank: The
bottom of a tank is often tempered glass, but it is extremely
rare for the sides to be tempered. Additionally, the water
weight on the bottom is significantly higher than on the sides
of a tank. Anytime glass is cut or drilled, micro fractures
always occur along the cut, and the hole reduces the structural
strength of the glass. While tanks are generally "over
engineered" to be much stronger than actually needed for
their capacity, the bottom is the "weakest link" and
should generally be avoided.
Drill at least 1" from
the sides of the glass:
All glass contains minor imperfections and flaws. Micro
fractures also occur along the edge of glass when it is cut.
To avoid placing any additional stress on those weak spots, we
recommend staying at least 1" away from any glass edge.
Use proper lubrication techniques: Basic lubrication techniques are
discussed above in Lubrication Tips &
Techniques <Click Here>. The best lubrication
method for tank drilling is to position the surface horizontally
and use a dam made of clay or similar material around the drill
area. The method as discussed in the above section, is
very simple and also very effective. If a large stationary
tank is being drilled in the vertical position, use the 'spray
method' and take care to get as much of the spray into the drill
slot as possible.
Assure adequate lubrication: While drilling, it helps to raise
the drill up and down a fraction of an inch once in a while as
you drill (about every minute or so). This merely assures
that water enters the drill hole completely and fully lubricates
the very tip of the bit . This "pumping" technique
is especially helpful when drilling larger tanks with thick walls.
Ease off when you are nearly
through: As a drill
breaks through the back side of any material, it will cause some
splintering. Due to the brittle fragile nature of glass
and your desire to retain structural integrity, you want to minimize
the splintering. Merely reduce the drill pressure as you
near the back of the glass. This is one of those rare instances
where time is your friend. If it takes you 3 minutes to
drill 75% of the way through, back off and use another 3 minutes
to go most of the the the remaining 25%. The final 1/32"
to 1/16" is the most delicate, so again take your time and
ease up on the pressure.
If your hole ends up being
a little too tight:
You don't want the hole to be any larger than you actually need,
but sometimes people cut it a little too close. Since the
pipe fittings are normally plastic, an easy solution is to use
fine sand paper to reduce the outside diameter of the fitting
slightly. If your hole is a little too large, the gasket
on the fitting normally provides extra room and should provide
an adequate seal.
Drilling holes in any glass reduces the structural integrity
of the glass and will reduce the safety levels that were intentionally
engineered into an aquarium. We must specifically state
that in offering these tips and techniques, we do not accept
any liability and disclaim any express or implied warranties
and all incidental or consequential damages should problems arise
from using our products for drilling aquariums.
The life span of all types of
drill bits is affected by the hardness and abrasiveness of the
material being drilled, the thickness of the material, plus the
speed of the power drill, the amount of pressure used and the
use of adequate lubrication. The hardness and abrasiveness
of materials can vary significantly. Even materials which
appear similar have varying degrees of hardness and abrasiveness.
Each individual's drill speed, pressure and amount of lubrication
also varies significantly. As a result it is nearly impossible
to estimate the life of a diamond bit.
For example: On standard
1/8" glass, an electroplated diamond bit may last for 200
to 300 holes, or more, depending upon the specific glass and
specific drilling techniques used. Drilling in 1/4"
glass, being twice as thick, will normally produce only half
as many holes over a drill bit's life, if the glass hardness
and drilling techniques are the same.
Lubrication has a significant
affect upon drill bit life. Using a good water lubrication
method can double or triple drill bit life. The effectiveness
of various lubrication methods are discussed in the lubrication
On the extremely hard and abrasive
materials, such as granite or the newer "super-hard"
porcelain floor tiles, a diamond bit may only produce 8 to 15
holes in 3/8" material. However, the same bit may
produce as many as 20 or more holes, all depending upon the specific
material, the thickness and the specific drilling techniques
used. Tests on some of the less hard, class III floor tiles
have ranged from 40 to 60 holes. Porcelain wall tile can
have bit lives of from 8 to 60 holes or more, depending upon
the exact material while ceramic wall tile can easily result
in hundreds of holes depending upon the hardness.
These examples are are all based
upon extensive testing in different materials using proper drill
speeds, drill head pressure, and lubrication. Test results
were much less, using poor drilling techniques, and extreme tests
using improper drilling techniques often resulted in a bit "burning
up" after only one or two holes.
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